Moschino F/W 2011:Military meets Celine meets Female-Bond-Villain. Much Fun Ensues.

You’d do well to bring out the marching band this Fall as Moschino embraces masculine militaria – with a curve-ball of a twist of course.

Think sharp suited savoir faire and embrace immaculately tailored tailcoats, rip-roaring riding jackets and palazzo pants (in gold lame no less) as Jardini re-imagined the dress uniform for the modern Moschino madam. Oh – and lets not forget the bizarre-meets-kitsch bazaaresque accoutrements: golden teddy bears, velvet bows and – yes – that stuffed-chicken hat.

 

Faux…but Foxy: Fur Fall/Winter 2010

Winter. It’s here. A fact which struck me as I was stumbling home on the obligatory walk of shame at 8am on Saturday morning (and you KNOW it’s a walk of shame when the local homeless guy who probably hasn’t washed, eaten or enjoyed what one might consider ‘home comforts’ since flares, bell bottoms and Gary Glitter were deemed socially acceptable, inquires after your state of health and well-being).

How, I hear you ask, did this revelation manifest itself (and no, it wasn’t the tramp – he was just an interesting aside). Well. It was the moment I decided that I would quite happily sell my soul – and probably everyone else’s –  for a pair of Chanel F/W 2010 fur trousers…

When legs like Bungle become a viable – DESIRABLE – option you have got to conclude that either a) googlemaps has mistakenly led you to the arctic tundra or b) the season to be jolly has, for the umpteenth time, managed to catch you totally unawares and very unprepared (Soooo… you thought you’d get away without your thermals did you?!…FOOL!!)

With this in mind – and the fact that my wardrobe has, in conjunction with its local Trade Union representative, imposed a ‘No, not ever, not ever ever. Just NO‘ policy in relation to Long Johns – I decided to go and find some warm things I would actually wear. Conclusion? Faux Fur…everything. (Please).

Burberry Prorsum F/W 2010

Let’s start with fur coats which tended to fall into three broad categories for Fall 2010: either, massive, cosy and teddy-bear-esque a la Paul and Joe, slimmed down and chic gilets – see DKNY’s long length chocolate number for this season’s archetype – or edgy and elegant anachronistic beauties (take inspiration from Burberry, Christian Dior and Dolce & Gabbana).

Gucci F/W 2010

The only issue I could foresee in owning any of these (they all have that magical  ‘go with anything’ factor you’d expect from a coat) would be the fact that I’d be too busy hugging myself to actually breathe. A minor inconvenience I think you’ll agree.

Gucci F/W 2010

Fendi F/W 2010

Christian Dior F/W 2010

Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010

THIS I WANT with every fibre of my being…

Of course I’d  have to top it off with a  Cossack hat (still lounging in fifties redux heaven here, plus it fits nicely with the whole global-traveller-meets-alpine-ski-lodge winter utility “vibe” which has been doing the rounds) Oh! and a pair of tan leather and fur trim ankle boots (which may or may not exist)…and some Miu Miu cable knit tights.

Santa…you had better be writing this down…

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The Thigh’s The Limit

Galliano revisited old ground this season with an eighteenth century equestrian extravaganza for Dior which was arguably hot enough to stop Dick Turpin in his tracks, if not innovative enough to wow an audience still high on Phoebe Philo’s ‘new’ purism…


The entire collection was, essentially a sequel to his spring couture offerings, albeit with more of a Bohemian fairytale twist, but I digress…the purpose of this post was actually to bring your attention to the collection’s crochet knit hold-ups. Those who know me will be well aware of my ongoing love-affair with hosiery (it’s a curse; the man hours involved in hand-washing my collection, well, it just doesn’t bear thinking about)…anyway THESE are my new must have – the rest can carry on lounging in my laundry basket.

They even bridge the gulf between sexy and practical (close enough anyway!). Bonus, FTW, <3! etc!

Images courtesy of Tom and Lorenzo and Style.com

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All That Glitters…

Gold. Gold. Gold!

Midas and his roving hands have been having a field-day this season with the fruit of their school-boyish labours in resplendent evidence catwalk-wide…

PPQ Fall 2010

Marc Jacobs Fall 2010

High gloss Lame, Lurex knits, sequined and gilded applique added a touch of razzle-dazzle to collections across the fashion board from head-to-thigh body-armour at Balmain to gilt-glam trenches at PPQ and if the life-sized-Oscar look isn’t for you, never fear! Trim, filigree, shoes, accessories – gold is the accent colour this season…there is literally no end to the ways you can work (and rework) this trend…

Alexander McQueen Fall 2010

Balmain Fall 2010

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Septuagenarian Chic F/W 2010

Okay Fashionistas, t’is the season to Nan-it-up. It’s time to don those duffel coats, cosy-up in a cardy, pull your woolly socks up and pop a couple of teabags in the pot. Autumn has come over all old-school.

Literally.

Prada f/w 2010 Ad Campaign

From ribbed metallics and alpine lodge sweater dressing at Michael Kors, to duffel’s and cable knits at Dolce & Gabbana, and lets not forget Miu Miu’s nan-tastic take on the fishnet. Granny glam is big news (and ultra practical – wouldn’t want to catch a cold now would we dears).

Miu Miu f/w 2010 Ad Campaign

Herringbone, cable, ribbed…the chunkier the better…even over-enthusiastic-Christmas-jumper knits are getting a look in over at Jean Paul Gaultier. Think blue-rinse chintz chic meets Celine-inspired layers: just hang fire on the lavender and moth balls. No one wants to smell like a doorway to Narnia.

Michael Kors f/w 2010

Dolce & Gabbana f/w 2010

Jean Paul Gaultier f/w 2010

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Fishing for Compliments: On Aura Tout Vu Couture

This has to be one of my favourite collections from this season’s Paris Couture week: On Aura Tout Vu (‘you think you’ve seen it all’ for those of you – like me – who didn’t take French) which, given the Paris-based design trio’s penchant for the wacky, theatrical and – some might say – OTT,  couldn’t be more appropriate in the wonderful world of branding.

Adored by Lady Gaga – rumour has it she has already ordered the entire new collection (save your shock and awe – this label is so Gaga it hurts) and serving up a glamorously distorted vision of an aquatic paradise (replete with bubble wrap monsters, giant multifaceted ‘bubble’ collars and piscine accessories and applique – the stuffed sea-monster shoulder-pads and cuffs were a definite winner for me; totally kitsch), On Aura Tout Vu’s Fall couture collection merges the ironic humour of surrealism with eminently wearable classic-chic tailoring. With a collection this good the compliments require no fishing!

Images Courtesy of ELLE and Trend Hunter

Watch the runway show:

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FAKE London: The F/W Comeback

Iconic Britpop Label FAKE London makes it’s UK comeback this season after a 3 year hiatus with a gritty collection which more than pays homage to it’s Nineties roots.

Hefty plastic zips, good old English tweed and totes masquerading as grocery bags emblazoned with the legend ‘Buy British’ vie alongside spray-painted denim, vintage braces and silver nylon windcheaters for the retro-kitsch top spot. While the woollen parka and tattered red Union Jack dress (Kate Moss already has her name down for one) are sure-fire sellouts.

Based in London and founded by Desiree Mejer in 1997 the quirky label, famous for it’s cult-spawning Union Jack and British Bull Dog iconography and coveted by the likes of Madonna and Gwen Stefani, goes on sale at harveynichols.com from the 12th July: head here to view the collection.

Original FAKE London images courtesey of Grazia Fashion.

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