Christian Dior F/W 2011: Galliano’s Romantic Renegades

After the scandal came the show (the huge crowd seemingly oblivious to the rumoured boycot) and, while it may have been a swan song of sorts, few in the history of fashion can claim to have been as dramatic.

Rebels, renegades and lashings of theatrical romance have always been Galliano’s hallmark and his final collection for Dior was no exception to the rule. Mulberry and striking red fox fur, velour and satined midnight blues, victoriana cameo-choker detailing, Cavalier head-gear, and THOSE thigh-high boots.

 

Day-wear saw Bohemian highwaymen meet dashing Royalists in autumnal tweeds with a slightly fetishistic twist whilst the evening-wear swept in with elegant tiers of ruffles and ruching in bewitching black sheers to give beautifully bad boudoir appeal alongside candy floss creations that oozed saccharine savoir fair.


Gorgeous. Theatrical. Indelibly Galliano.

Head here to view the entire collection.

Dior Ditches Galliano…So Who’s Next?!

This truly is the end of an era and just days before the Christian Dior show at Paris Fashion Week (drama anyone!?)

…But, this is fashion and the show MUST go on so who’s next for the top spot at Dior?!
The bookies are currently favouring Stefano Pilati (rumoured to be leaving YSL after 9 years in the top job) – followed by former YSL designer and photographer Hedi Limane, with Dior Homme Creative Director Kris Van Assche in third.

But who do you think should take the CD crown from one of the most creatively brilliant designers of recent decades?! The race is officially on.

Amplify’d from www.examiner.com

LVMH Ditches Galliano from Post at Dior

This is the famous video of famed designer John Galliano making disturbing comments re: anti-semitism.  As a result of this horrible display of behavior and irresponsability on Mr. Galliano ‘s part LVMH (owner of the Christian Dior label and Galliano’s boss) has decided to fire the British born designer.

Dior Chief Executive Sidney Toledano said the “odious nature” of Galliano’s comments and behavior on the video led Dior to relieve Galliano of his duties after 15 years as the label’s chief designer and just three days before Dior’s catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week.

“I very firmly condemn what was said by John Galliano, which totally contradicts the values which have always been defended by Christian Dior,” Toledano said in a statement. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20110301/en_nm/us_dior_galliano

Read more at www.examiner.com

 

Galliano Suspension Latest

Natalie Portman speaks out against designer John Galliano and Christian Dior has yet to announce his fate as further evidence comes to light…

Follow these links for more on the story & Monday’s video:
http://tiny.cc/c8fhe
http://tiny.cc/h3x1d

Amplify’d from www.vogue.co.uk

John Galliano Latest

John Galliano arrested in Paris for assault

Updated Monday 28 February 4.46pm: Natalie Portman has condemned John Galliano, following the release of a video of him using anti-Semitic language. Portman, who is the face of Christian Dior’s Miss Dior Cherie fragrance, is also Jewish.

“I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments that surfaced today,” the Oscar winner said in a statement released last night. “In light of this video, and as an individual who is proud to be Jewish, I will not be associated with Mr Galliano in any way. I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect and act upon combating these still-existing prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.”

Updated Monday 28 February 5.28pm: Italian Vogue’s Franca Sozzani has defended John Galliano for his videotaped outburst, stating that Galliano “was clearly provoked, and filmed while obviously inebriated”. She also suggested that the woman who taped it might have done so for financial motives, NY Magazine reports.

Updated Monday 28 February 4.46pm: Giorgio Armani says he feels sorry for John Galliano. Following his autumn/winter 2011-12 show earlier today, the Italian designer told the Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander, via an interpreter backstage, that he was sorry to hear what had happened to Galliano – acknowledging that it must be a difficult time for him – adding that he was sorry that Galliano had been videotaped without his knowledge.

Updated Monday 28 February 12.30pm: Another complaint alleging anti-Semitic remarks against John Galliano was filed on Saturday with Paris police, the designer’s lawyer Stéphane Zerbib confirmed today. A second woman, as yet unnamed, has accused the designer, WWD reports, but it is not yet clear if the incident relates to the film which emerged today (see below for more information). Géraldine Bloch and her companion, Philippe Virgiti, filed charges against Galliano on Thursday – and the designer filed a counter-claim of defamation, injury and menace against Bloch and Virgiti later the same day.

Read more at www.vogue.co.uk

 

Galliano Suspended?!

John Galliano arrested in Paris over alleged racist assault …

Seriously hoping this is just a misunderstanding combined with a knee-jerk PR driven suspension!!!

Amplify’d from www.vogue.co.uk

John Galliano Suspended

John Galliano arrested in Paris for assault

Lauren Milligan

25 February 2011

Updated Friday 25 February 2.15pm: Reuters has confirmed that John Galliano has been suspended by Christian Dior.

“Dior affirms with the utmost conviction its policy of zero tolerance towards any anti-Semitic or racist words or behaviour,” Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano said in a statement. “Pending the results of the inquiry, Christian Dior has suspended John Galliano from his responsibilities.”

Updated Friday 25 February 8.22am: John Galliano has been arrested for an alleged assault, as well as alleged anti-Semitic remarks, reports on international news agency AFP suggest today – but all may not be as it seems. We spoke to someone this morning who was in the cafe at the time of the altercation – and her story suggests Galliano may not have been at fault.

“We had a table at La Perle and John Galliano sat next to us,” our eyewitness told us. “He spoke to a couple at a nearby table to say ‘Cheers’ and they insulted him. An argument started and the police came, so Galliano’s bodyguard suggested that they should go to the police station to sort it out. He wasn’t ‘busted’ aggressively by police, it was very quiet and peaceful. I definitely didn’t hear him say anything anti-Semitic, or against any religion, it was all very calm.”

Sources told AFP earlier this morning that the Christian Dior creative director was apprehended in Paris last night for assault, following an altercation in the city’s Marais district. He was reportedly released by police this morning. The designer was allegedly accused of verbally abusing a couple who were sitting on a cafe terrace – and was found to have been drinking alcohol when he was arrested.

“For the moment we don’t know what led him to address the couple,” the police source said.

A Christian Dior spokesperson said this morning that the label does not have any official comment as yet. See a full eyewitness interview on www.sleek-mag.com.

Read more at www.vogue.co.uk

 

Get Flirty in Florals This Spring

Spring is due to, well, spring fairly soon – maybe even this week if chatty recruitment consultants are to be believed, er *cough* – and, naturellement, spring in fashion means the inevitable re-emergence of that perennial favourite: floral prints.

Unimaginative, perhaps, but a welcome break from monochromatic colour blocks and, particularly when you’ve been cooped up in the City for what feels (both in terms of time and temperature) an ice age, a rather refreshing reminder that there is in fact life out there – somewhere.

Unlike s/s 2010 with it’s ditsy, chintzy, fairly unassuming foray into the floral trend, this Spring’s botanicals are big, blowzy and unabashedly in-your-face.

Think feature wall, think Interflora, think Nana’s beloved early 90’s curtains, and prepare to be transported to a hyper-real romantic idyll where merrily chirruping birds replace vocal drunks, where the rumbling, clanking progress of the Number 8 is replaced by the industrious yet soothing drone of furry little bumble bees, and where that gentle tinkling you can hear is an actual stream which in all likelihood flows into an enchanted grove populated entirely by faeries, gnomes and cuddly cotton-tails – not some sweaty guys having a whizz behind the bins next to Ministry of Kebab.

Transmuting the otherworldly floral delights of his couture show to the (slightly) more practical terenne of RTW, nautical meets Hawaiian graphic and 50’s sass in Galliano’s s/s 2011 collection – and single-handledly casts a designer life-ring to the beleaguered and all-but forgotten halterneck.

Christian Dior RTW s/s 2011

In a surprising move away from the cutesy Sunday-Best vibe which often permeates Chanel’s RTW collections, Lagerfeld offers up a bounty of dégradé chiffon florals in retro cuts with a strikingly edgy – verging on Rodarte-quirky – feel.

Chanel RTW s/s 2011

I could – quite literally – go on (and on) … the stand-out summer picnic prints at D&G, the flippant girlishness at Paul & Joe…the garden party garrulousness at Etro, et al…et al… But my personal pick of this Spring’s bunch has to be Kenzo’s gorgeously voluminous sun-bleached collection which speaks of a cool breeze on a hot day. And God knows we could do with a hot day (and a Kenzo in the wardrobe).

Kenzo s/s 2011

 

Faux…but Foxy: Fur Fall/Winter 2010

Winter. It’s here. A fact which struck me as I was stumbling home on the obligatory walk of shame at 8am on Saturday morning (and you KNOW it’s a walk of shame when the local homeless guy who probably hasn’t washed, eaten or enjoyed what one might consider ‘home comforts’ since flares, bell bottoms and Gary Glitter were deemed socially acceptable, inquires after your state of health and well-being).

How, I hear you ask, did this revelation manifest itself (and no, it wasn’t the tramp – he was just an interesting aside). Well. It was the moment I decided that I would quite happily sell my soul – and probably everyone else’s –  for a pair of Chanel F/W 2010 fur trousers…

When legs like Bungle become a viable – DESIRABLE – option you have got to conclude that either a) googlemaps has mistakenly led you to the arctic tundra or b) the season to be jolly has, for the umpteenth time, managed to catch you totally unawares and very unprepared (Soooo… you thought you’d get away without your thermals did you?!…FOOL!!)

With this in mind – and the fact that my wardrobe has, in conjunction with its local Trade Union representative, imposed a ‘No, not ever, not ever ever. Just NO‘ policy in relation to Long Johns – I decided to go and find some warm things I would actually wear. Conclusion? Faux Fur…everything. (Please).

Burberry Prorsum F/W 2010

Let’s start with fur coats which tended to fall into three broad categories for Fall 2010: either, massive, cosy and teddy-bear-esque a la Paul and Joe, slimmed down and chic gilets – see DKNY’s long length chocolate number for this season’s archetype – or edgy and elegant anachronistic beauties (take inspiration from Burberry, Christian Dior and Dolce & Gabbana).

Gucci F/W 2010

The only issue I could foresee in owning any of these (they all have that magical  ‘go with anything’ factor you’d expect from a coat) would be the fact that I’d be too busy hugging myself to actually breathe. A minor inconvenience I think you’ll agree.

Gucci F/W 2010

Fendi F/W 2010

Christian Dior F/W 2010

Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2010

THIS I WANT with every fibre of my being…

Of course I’d  have to top it off with a  Cossack hat (still lounging in fifties redux heaven here, plus it fits nicely with the whole global-traveller-meets-alpine-ski-lodge winter utility “vibe” which has been doing the rounds) Oh! and a pair of tan leather and fur trim ankle boots (which may or may not exist)…and some Miu Miu cable knit tights.

Santa…you had better be writing this down…

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Paris Haute Couture week: F/W 2010/11

Ah, Couture…the apple of my sartorial eye. Gorgeous, improbable and quixotic fabric follies. Couture is the brilliantly madcap stuff of dreams and uninhibited fantasy – and be honest, who doesn’t revel in the occasional flight of fancy? Hmm?) It is fashion stripped back to it’s artistic core in a gloriously sinful, hedonistic embrace with the utterly impractical.  Pure, unadulterated indulgence: no pretence required, no situational definitions – couture by nature has no real ’place’ – sculptural cellophane hats are unlikely to catch on as work wear, for instance (although they would make for interesting boardroom meetings).

And so, before I talk myself clean out of literary flourishes, to the home of Haute Couture for a Fashionable Rat’s retrospective of the Paris Couture week f/w 2010.

I think I shall begin with a schedule, tasty visual treats and a few links before fleshing it out with linked posts: a) I am not aiming for the world’s longest, largest and most image heavy post award, and b) even a Rat’s gotta sleep sometime – and work apparently – more’s the pity.  So – to Paris…

…tout de suite!

Monday July 5th 2010

Christophe Josse

Images courtesy of Coutorture

Bouchra Jarrar


Images courtesy of Style.com: head here for their runway review.

Christian Dior


Images courtesy of Thai Catwalk

Review by the Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander

Atelier Gustavo Lins

Images Courtesy of Fashion Windows

Adeline Andre

Alexis Mabille

Images and review courtesy of Style.com

Tuesday July 6th

Giorgio Armani Privé

Images: Style.com

Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph

Lefranc Ferrant

Front row footage over at ELLETV

Images at: Maison Chaplin

Stéphane Rolland

Images courtesy of Fashion Fame

More at: Vogue.co.uk

Givenchy

Images: Style.com

Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph.

Chanel

Images: Style.com

Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph.

Wednesday July 7th

On Aura Tout Vu

Images & Runway review over at Fashionista.com

Franck Sorbier

Images: Focus on Style

Review: Yahoo News

Elie Saab

Images/ Review: Style.com

Jean Paul Gaultier

Images/ Review: Style.com

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

Image at Life.com

Valentino


Images/ Review: Style.com

Thursday July 8th


Boucheron


Chanel Joaillerie

All images courtesy of Susan Tabak

Chaumet
Mellerio Dits Meller
Van Cleef & Arpels

Phew! I’ll update as soon as I can (and get down to some internet super-sleuthing to find those pesky missing images).

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