Christopher Kane reprises his role as the sartorial resurrection man of the moment with his second collection for Versace’s freshly revived Versus line. After five years in fashion exile the Versus label reemerged from ignominy with a s/s collection firmly rooted in classic Versace – the references were blindingly obvious (safety pins – THAT Liz Hurley dress) yet delivered with the precise, edgy and multi-thematic aplomb we’ve come to expect from Kane.
In short? An absolute corker of a comeback from the house of Versace which simultaneously managed to steer clear of staid imitation and pretty much nailed the market in deliciously dark and debonair party wear.
The Fall collection picks up on the punky diffidence of s/s and dives deeper into a Kaneian meme playoff with an unsettling mix of balletic beauty and fierce bondage, which firmly establishes subversion as the idée du jour this autumn.
Fetish just got girly with stiffly pleated satin frocks plumped to perfection with lolita-esque organza petticoats, striking lingerie inspired cutaways and stark structured jackets, graphic tees and cocktail body con – a marvellously irreverent pick and mix of dress uniform formality and rock and roll indifference.