Christian Dior F/W 2011: Galliano’s Romantic Renegades

After the scandal came the show (the huge crowd seemingly oblivious to the rumoured boycot) and, while it may have been a swan song of sorts, few in the history of fashion can claim to have been as dramatic.

Rebels, renegades and lashings of theatrical romance have always been Galliano’s hallmark and his final collection for Dior was no exception to the rule. Mulberry and striking red fox fur, velour and satined midnight blues, victoriana cameo-choker detailing, Cavalier head-gear, and THOSE thigh-high boots.

 

Day-wear saw Bohemian highwaymen meet dashing Royalists in autumnal tweeds with a slightly fetishistic twist whilst the evening-wear swept in with elegant tiers of ruffles and ruching in bewitching black sheers to give beautifully bad boudoir appeal alongside candy floss creations that oozed saccharine savoir fair.


Gorgeous. Theatrical. Indelibly Galliano.

Head here to view the entire collection.

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Dior Ditches Galliano…So Who’s Next?!

This truly is the end of an era and just days before the Christian Dior show at Paris Fashion Week (drama anyone!?)

…But, this is fashion and the show MUST go on so who’s next for the top spot at Dior?!
The bookies are currently favouring Stefano Pilati (rumoured to be leaving YSL after 9 years in the top job) – followed by former YSL designer and photographer Hedi Limane, with Dior Homme Creative Director Kris Van Assche in third.

But who do you think should take the CD crown from one of the most creatively brilliant designers of recent decades?! The race is officially on.

Amplify’d from www.examiner.com

LVMH Ditches Galliano from Post at Dior

This is the famous video of famed designer John Galliano making disturbing comments re: anti-semitism.  As a result of this horrible display of behavior and irresponsability on Mr. Galliano ‘s part LVMH (owner of the Christian Dior label and Galliano’s boss) has decided to fire the British born designer.

Dior Chief Executive Sidney Toledano said the “odious nature” of Galliano’s comments and behavior on the video led Dior to relieve Galliano of his duties after 15 years as the label’s chief designer and just three days before Dior’s catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week.

“I very firmly condemn what was said by John Galliano, which totally contradicts the values which have always been defended by Christian Dior,” Toledano said in a statement. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20110301/en_nm/us_dior_galliano

Read more at www.examiner.com

 

Galliano Suspension Latest

Natalie Portman speaks out against designer John Galliano and Christian Dior has yet to announce his fate as further evidence comes to light…

Follow these links for more on the story & Monday’s video:
http://tiny.cc/c8fhe
http://tiny.cc/h3x1d

Amplify’d from www.vogue.co.uk

John Galliano Latest

John Galliano arrested in Paris for assault

Updated Monday 28 February 4.46pm: Natalie Portman has condemned John Galliano, following the release of a video of him using anti-Semitic language. Portman, who is the face of Christian Dior’s Miss Dior Cherie fragrance, is also Jewish.

“I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments that surfaced today,” the Oscar winner said in a statement released last night. “In light of this video, and as an individual who is proud to be Jewish, I will not be associated with Mr Galliano in any way. I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect and act upon combating these still-existing prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.”

Updated Monday 28 February 5.28pm: Italian Vogue’s Franca Sozzani has defended John Galliano for his videotaped outburst, stating that Galliano “was clearly provoked, and filmed while obviously inebriated”. She also suggested that the woman who taped it might have done so for financial motives, NY Magazine reports.

Updated Monday 28 February 4.46pm: Giorgio Armani says he feels sorry for John Galliano. Following his autumn/winter 2011-12 show earlier today, the Italian designer told the Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander, via an interpreter backstage, that he was sorry to hear what had happened to Galliano – acknowledging that it must be a difficult time for him – adding that he was sorry that Galliano had been videotaped without his knowledge.

Updated Monday 28 February 12.30pm: Another complaint alleging anti-Semitic remarks against John Galliano was filed on Saturday with Paris police, the designer’s lawyer Stéphane Zerbib confirmed today. A second woman, as yet unnamed, has accused the designer, WWD reports, but it is not yet clear if the incident relates to the film which emerged today (see below for more information). Géraldine Bloch and her companion, Philippe Virgiti, filed charges against Galliano on Thursday – and the designer filed a counter-claim of defamation, injury and menace against Bloch and Virgiti later the same day.

Read more at www.vogue.co.uk

 

The New Romantics: S/S 2011

Britain may have a face like a smacked arse right now but whilst Spring does it’s very best to emerge from behind the sleet-grey backdrop of winter, romance is once again rearing it’s whimsical head and stretching out its languorous lace-clad limbs on the high street.

Of course it’s not all lace, think back to s/s 2010’s fetish for layering sheers and chiffon and add a dash of theatrical decadence. That’s the new romantic.

Now, time for your mandatory shot of runway inspiration…

Think déshabille chic and work sheers in dramatic layers for 20’s-nouveau-meets-art-house appeal a la John Galliano’s ready-to-wear collection based on the life and nefarious pursuits of Maria Lani – a Polish émigré who conned Paris’ artistic elite during the late 1920’s (read more about her here)

John Galliano S/S 2011 RTW

For something altogether more virginal why not reference Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring collection and work the table-cloth aesthetic (and no…I’m not joking…and it’s FABULOUS) – delicate tatting, sheer whites, crochet and beautifully executed broderie anglaise.

Okay, so virginal in a wild, animalistic, Wuthering Heights’ Cathy kind of way.

Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2011

Or, given the season – Golden Globes, Oscars…anyone? – why not look to Donna Karan’s breath-taking red-carpet chic…beaded applique, silk, tulle and (of course) sheers…*sigh*

Donna Karan S/S 2011

Of course if all that soft-focus, gentle femininity is too much for you, you can always rock it up with black leather (I recommend the Burberry cropped biker). Who said romance had to be good?


Get Flirty in Florals This Spring

Spring is due to, well, spring fairly soon – maybe even this week if chatty recruitment consultants are to be believed, er *cough* – and, naturellement, spring in fashion means the inevitable re-emergence of that perennial favourite: floral prints.

Unimaginative, perhaps, but a welcome break from monochromatic colour blocks and, particularly when you’ve been cooped up in the City for what feels (both in terms of time and temperature) an ice age, a rather refreshing reminder that there is in fact life out there – somewhere.

Unlike s/s 2010 with it’s ditsy, chintzy, fairly unassuming foray into the floral trend, this Spring’s botanicals are big, blowzy and unabashedly in-your-face.

Think feature wall, think Interflora, think Nana’s beloved early 90’s curtains, and prepare to be transported to a hyper-real romantic idyll where merrily chirruping birds replace vocal drunks, where the rumbling, clanking progress of the Number 8 is replaced by the industrious yet soothing drone of furry little bumble bees, and where that gentle tinkling you can hear is an actual stream which in all likelihood flows into an enchanted grove populated entirely by faeries, gnomes and cuddly cotton-tails – not some sweaty guys having a whizz behind the bins next to Ministry of Kebab.

Transmuting the otherworldly floral delights of his couture show to the (slightly) more practical terenne of RTW, nautical meets Hawaiian graphic and 50’s sass in Galliano’s s/s 2011 collection – and single-handledly casts a designer life-ring to the beleaguered and all-but forgotten halterneck.

Christian Dior RTW s/s 2011

In a surprising move away from the cutesy Sunday-Best vibe which often permeates Chanel’s RTW collections, Lagerfeld offers up a bounty of dégradé chiffon florals in retro cuts with a strikingly edgy – verging on Rodarte-quirky – feel.

Chanel RTW s/s 2011

I could – quite literally – go on (and on) … the stand-out summer picnic prints at D&G, the flippant girlishness at Paul & Joe…the garden party garrulousness at Etro, et al…et al… But my personal pick of this Spring’s bunch has to be Kenzo’s gorgeously voluminous sun-bleached collection which speaks of a cool breeze on a hot day. And God knows we could do with a hot day (and a Kenzo in the wardrobe).

Kenzo s/s 2011

 

The Thigh’s The Limit

Galliano revisited old ground this season with an eighteenth century equestrian extravaganza for Dior which was arguably hot enough to stop Dick Turpin in his tracks, if not innovative enough to wow an audience still high on Phoebe Philo’s ‘new’ purism…


The entire collection was, essentially a sequel to his spring couture offerings, albeit with more of a Bohemian fairytale twist, but I digress…the purpose of this post was actually to bring your attention to the collection’s crochet knit hold-ups. Those who know me will be well aware of my ongoing love-affair with hosiery (it’s a curse; the man hours involved in hand-washing my collection, well, it just doesn’t bear thinking about)…anyway THESE are my new must have – the rest can carry on lounging in my laundry basket.

They even bridge the gulf between sexy and practical (close enough anyway!). Bonus, FTW, <3! etc!

Images courtesy of Tom and Lorenzo and Style.com

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The Incroyable Monsieur Galliano

Article first published as The Incroyable Monsieur Galliano on Blogcritics.

Four times British Designer of the Year, with a sell-out graduate collection, his own label, and the top spot at the helm of French couture flagship Dior: the “mad genius of fashion” has more than enough credentials to justify his position as one of the most influential and dynamic designers of the modern age.

Born in Gibraltar, raised in London, and educated at Central St. Martins, Galliano’s ascension to the upper echelons of the fashion elite has played out like a modern-day fairytale, with Fairy-Godmother-come-editorialista Anna Wintour helping to iron out those tricky financial creases and propel him from creative darling of the demi-monde to a critical and commercial design behemoth.

Galliano’s collections give us a vision of fantasy toying with reality, inspired by everything from Bollywood kitsch (s/s 2003) to the frontiers of American Gothic (a/w 2006) and on to the film noir glamour of his s/s 2010 collection for Dior. Harking back to the dawn of cinema, the era of the silent movie—powdered doll-like faces, vividly defined Clara Bow lips, and gossamer-fine dresses layered with a powerfully nostalgic laissez faire—Galliano’s signature line for spring 2010 conjures up a kind of art-house vintage beauty, an image of faded yet enduring bohemian allure played-off to perfection against the trappings of modern-age technical wizardry.

Given the often dizzying juxtapositions, left-field muses, and overarching theatricality, ‘fantasy’ in Galliano’s work is about as far removed from a namby-pamby Disneyfied fantasia in soft-focus as it is possible to get. Rather, we are presented with a visceral, vivid, brazen self-awareness which decimates conceptual barriers between often disparate themes and ideas and reconstructs them as a histrionic nonesuch of elaborate brilliance accented with a needle-sharp irony which is sheer magic and sheer Galliano.

Inspired by the “attitude and anarchy of the London rock scene” and promising to inject some quirky chic back into urban street style, his hotly anticipated (and utterly wearable) menswear diffusion line ‘Galliano’ is due to hit stores this Fall: head over to fashionfame.com to view more of the collection. Here’s hoping that womenswear will be next on the agenda…keep those fingers crossed ladies!

All images courtesy of Style.com.

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