Fishing for Compliments: On Aura Tout Vu Couture

This has to be one of my favourite collections from this season’s Paris Couture week: On Aura Tout Vu (‘you think you’ve seen it all’ for those of you – like me – who didn’t take French) which, given the Paris-based design trio’s penchant for the wacky, theatrical and – some might say – OTT,  couldn’t be more appropriate in the wonderful world of branding.

Adored by Lady Gaga – rumour has it she has already ordered the entire new collection (save your shock and awe – this label is so Gaga it hurts) and serving up a glamorously distorted vision of an aquatic paradise (replete with bubble wrap monsters, giant multifaceted ‘bubble’ collars and piscine accessories and applique – the stuffed sea-monster shoulder-pads and cuffs were a definite winner for me; totally kitsch), On Aura Tout Vu’s Fall couture collection merges the ironic humour of surrealism with eminently wearable classic-chic tailoring. With a collection this good the compliments require no fishing!

Images Courtesy of ELLE and Trend Hunter

Watch the runway show:

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Défilé: Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Paris F/W 2010

Femininity with a touch of humour, quality workmanship, avant-garde creativity with it’s artistic tongue firmly in cheek; Parisian couturier Franck Sorbier didn’t disappoint the fashion tribe at this year’s Paris Couture Fashion Week. With pieces crafted from corrugated card, papier-mache, sweet wrappers, pegs and crumpled brown paper, Sorbier seems to have quite literally pulled the ball gown out of the bin.

Anyone with any knowledge of popular culture (in fact anyone who hasn’t been living in an isolated mountain cave with only goats for company for the past decade) would have noticed a striking similarity between this brilliantly conceived collection and Mugatu’s ‘Derelict’ campaign in the fashion comedy ‘Zoolander.’

Intentional? Well, I’m not well placed enough to say for sure, but if it were kudos is definitely due for an expertly delivered double whammy of a sassy satirical sucker-punch – an impeccably pulled-off takeover of parodic stereotyping with an ironic nod to the upsurge in eco “upcycling” fashion. [Kapow!]


To those who would deride, dismiss or decry the place of corsets fashioned from old M&M and Ritz cracker packets or dresses conjured up from brown paper bags on the runway; well, all I can do is gently point out that to take the humour out of the thing is pretty much tantamount to intellectual, artistic and creative castration. Go on, crack a smile – it probably won’t kill you.

To view the whole collection head over to Nicholas Genin’s Flickr

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Paris Haute Couture week: F/W 2010/11

Ah, Couture…the apple of my sartorial eye. Gorgeous, improbable and quixotic fabric follies. Couture is the brilliantly madcap stuff of dreams and uninhibited fantasy – and be honest, who doesn’t revel in the occasional flight of fancy? Hmm?) It is fashion stripped back to it’s artistic core in a gloriously sinful, hedonistic embrace with the utterly impractical.  Pure, unadulterated indulgence: no pretence required, no situational definitions – couture by nature has no real ’place’ – sculptural cellophane hats are unlikely to catch on as work wear, for instance (although they would make for interesting boardroom meetings).

And so, before I talk myself clean out of literary flourishes, to the home of Haute Couture for a Fashionable Rat’s retrospective of the Paris Couture week f/w 2010.

I think I shall begin with a schedule, tasty visual treats and a few links before fleshing it out with linked posts: a) I am not aiming for the world’s longest, largest and most image heavy post award, and b) even a Rat’s gotta sleep sometime – and work apparently – more’s the pity.  So – to Paris…

…tout de suite!

Monday July 5th 2010

Christophe Josse

Images courtesy of Coutorture

Bouchra Jarrar


Images courtesy of Style.com: head here for their runway review.

Christian Dior


Images courtesy of Thai Catwalk

Review by the Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander

Atelier Gustavo Lins

Images Courtesy of Fashion Windows

Adeline Andre

Alexis Mabille

Images and review courtesy of Style.com

Tuesday July 6th

Giorgio Armani Privé

Images: Style.com

Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph

Lefranc Ferrant

Front row footage over at ELLETV

Images at: Maison Chaplin

Stéphane Rolland

Images courtesy of Fashion Fame

More at: Vogue.co.uk

Givenchy

Images: Style.com

Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph.

Chanel

Images: Style.com

Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph.

Wednesday July 7th

On Aura Tout Vu

Images & Runway review over at Fashionista.com

Franck Sorbier

Images: Focus on Style

Review: Yahoo News

Elie Saab

Images/ Review: Style.com

Jean Paul Gaultier

Images/ Review: Style.com

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

Image at Life.com

Valentino


Images/ Review: Style.com

Thursday July 8th


Boucheron


Chanel Joaillerie

All images courtesy of Susan Tabak

Chaumet
Mellerio Dits Meller
Van Cleef & Arpels

Phew! I’ll update as soon as I can (and get down to some internet super-sleuthing to find those pesky missing images).

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