Septuagenarian Chic F/W 2010

Okay Fashionistas, t’is the season to Nan-it-up. It’s time to don those duffel coats, cosy-up in a cardy, pull your woolly socks up and pop a couple of teabags in the pot. Autumn has come over all old-school.


Prada f/w 2010 Ad Campaign

From ribbed metallics and alpine lodge sweater dressing at Michael Kors, to duffel’s and cable knits at Dolce & Gabbana, and lets not forget Miu Miu’s nan-tastic take on the fishnet. Granny glam is big news (and ultra practical – wouldn’t want to catch a cold now would we dears).

Miu Miu f/w 2010 Ad Campaign

Herringbone, cable, ribbed…the chunkier the better…even over-enthusiastic-Christmas-jumper knits are getting a look in over at Jean Paul Gaultier. Think blue-rinse chintz chic meets Celine-inspired layers: just hang fire on the lavender and moth balls. No one wants to smell like a doorway to Narnia.

Michael Kors f/w 2010

Dolce & Gabbana f/w 2010

Jean Paul Gaultier f/w 2010

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Jean Paul Gaultier Couture F/W 2010: The Lady & The Vamp

You’d always do well to expect a certain amount of raunch from a JPG collection and Gaultier’s showing for this season’s Parisian couture week was definitely no exception to the rule, showcasing as it did two pieces from the upcoming JPG/La Perla Lingerie capsule collection with a little Parisienne Ooh la la from Queen of Burlesque Dita Von Teese.

Of course it wasn’t all about lingerie…taking us back to his classics – the signature trench coat reworked first in black gabardine with voluminous batwings and then again in ivory silk, the Madonna cones reincarnated in black mink – Gaultier served up a heady dose of provocative Parisian chic with a delectably Deco twist.

Models sashayed down the runway wearing high twisted turbans, oozing feminine glamour and smoking from elegant cigarette holders like achingly cool spectres of silver screen legend Louis Brooke. Structured shoulders, generous sleeves and hobble-inducing pencil skirts all served to supe-up the voluptuous silhouette of Gaultier’s girls to show-stopping proportions. Essentially, this collection was Jean Paul Gaultier doing what he does best: self-assured,  sassy. Sex. On. Legs.

And boy does he do it well…

Images Courtesy of

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Paris Haute Couture week: F/W 2010/11

Ah, Couture…the apple of my sartorial eye. Gorgeous, improbable and quixotic fabric follies. Couture is the brilliantly madcap stuff of dreams and uninhibited fantasy – and be honest, who doesn’t revel in the occasional flight of fancy? Hmm?) It is fashion stripped back to it’s artistic core in a gloriously sinful, hedonistic embrace with the utterly impractical.  Pure, unadulterated indulgence: no pretence required, no situational definitions – couture by nature has no real ’place’ – sculptural cellophane hats are unlikely to catch on as work wear, for instance (although they would make for interesting boardroom meetings).

And so, before I talk myself clean out of literary flourishes, to the home of Haute Couture for a Fashionable Rat’s retrospective of the Paris Couture week f/w 2010.

I think I shall begin with a schedule, tasty visual treats and a few links before fleshing it out with linked posts: a) I am not aiming for the world’s longest, largest and most image heavy post award, and b) even a Rat’s gotta sleep sometime – and work apparently – more’s the pity.  So – to Paris…

…tout de suite!

Monday July 5th 2010

Christophe Josse

Images courtesy of Coutorture

Bouchra Jarrar

Images courtesy of head here for their runway review.

Christian Dior

Images courtesy of Thai Catwalk

Review by the Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander

Atelier Gustavo Lins

Images Courtesy of Fashion Windows

Adeline Andre

Alexis Mabille

Images and review courtesy of

Tuesday July 6th

Giorgio Armani Privé


Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph

Lefranc Ferrant

Front row footage over at ELLETV

Images at: Maison Chaplin

Stéphane Rolland

Images courtesy of Fashion Fame

More at:



Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph.



Review: Hilary Alexander for the Telegraph.

Wednesday July 7th

On Aura Tout Vu

Images & Runway review over at

Franck Sorbier

Images: Focus on Style

Review: Yahoo News

Elie Saab

Images/ Review:

Jean Paul Gaultier

Images/ Review:

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

Image at


Images/ Review:

Thursday July 8th


Chanel Joaillerie

All images courtesy of Susan Tabak

Mellerio Dits Meller
Van Cleef & Arpels

Phew! I’ll update as soon as I can (and get down to some internet super-sleuthing to find those pesky missing images).

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Game. Set. Match.

Another glorious day, another sporting fixture, another excuse to ogle the honed, toned and physically well-coordinated. Yes it’s Wimbledon – you’ll have to forgive me for keeping quiet on the World Cup front: static generating nylon nasties have absolutely no role in my wardrobe whatsoever (although kudos deservingly goes to Paraguay for their knockout  homage to Pippi Longstocking).

Tennis on the other hand serves up a wealth of classically chic sportif separates for the discerning fashionista (not to mention the associated accessory boom – shin pads? No thank you….chic cream fingerless leather gloves…? Well, go on then).

Think refined elegance and channel Gaultier’s take on the trend for Hermès: virginal pleating, cable knits and effortlessly stylish palazzo pants. Accessorize court-side with a visor, sweat bands and that all important ivory Birkin

For the ultimate in sports-casual sophistication embrace long-line, ankle-skimming maxis to femme-up those ubiquitous masculine shirt shapes.

FYI: Sweat (as if a Hermès girl would – could?) and rackets are an accessory too far…leave the rackets to the runways and the sweat to the pros: the key is to keep this look sleek, fresh and well away from the dreaded realm of fancy dress faux pas-dom.

Photographs courtesy of

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Jump into Jumpsuits

The jumpsuit is officially back in (in case you hadn’t noticed already) and judging by the a/w 2010 runways it’s going nowhere fast. So, how – you may very well be asking – do you rock what is essentially an oversized romper suit without, a) looking like you’ve taken style advice from Astro Boy (never a good plan), or b) are a member [real or imaginary] of an elite care-in-the-community Bio-Hazard squad – like this guy…

(Muchas gracias to @millyglaister for this particular gem…pure visual poetry)

French Connection s/s 2010

I must admit, I have been wrestling with the jumpsuit question for a while, that and the obvious inconveniences posed by a full body garment. Need the loo anyone? In the comfort of your own home getting butt naked in the privy would prove no real problem but consider, if you will, the inherent dangers involved once you enter the public domain. What if (Mother of God please protect me from this eventuality) you get caught short on the train, more specifically on a Virgin train: you know, the ones with the slow reveal virtually-impossible-to-lock doors? Forget Freddy Krueger, THIS is what nightmares are made of.

H&M s/s 2010

Missoni s/s 2010

And who could forget our old friend VPL, gloriously enhanced by this season’s penchant for glossy, silky, clingy fabrics. Solution? Commando (I know, rarely does there come a day when going commando is the sensible option, but that’s the jumpsuit for you).

Lanvin a/w 2010

So why? Why subject ourselves to the very real possibility of public humiliation, exposure and (if you’re going down the PVC route) chaffing. Well, aside from the fact that they are f%*@ing cooler than a menthol polar bear floating in the upper troposphere where sky meets space and staring mournfully into a strip-your-face-off sou’westerly…(for sub-zero referencing look no further than the head honcho of retro jumpsuit chic Vince Noir, or Bowie: King of The One-Piece (& the codpiece. Natch! )

At this juncture I would like to invite you to join me in a hushed and reverential kowtow…

Oh, what would I not give for a glam-tastic Ziggy Stardust Jumpsuit!

End of digression.

Sonia Rykiel Resort 2010

Flattering on just about every figure, sexy, in a kinky Kim Basinger kind of way, super hot with a pair of heels, comfortable and office-friendly – that’s some serious day-to-night potential right there (hallelujah!)

Matthew Williamson Resort 2010

Etro s/s 2010

Left: DKNY s/s 2010,  Right: Jean Paul Gaultier s/s 2010

In the end, the out-and-out godlike genius of the jumpsuit far outweighs the mundane faffy little impracticalities. After all, if it were easy –  if it were practical – it just wouldn’t be fashion now would it…

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Lingerie Breaks out of the Boudoir

Underwear as outerwear is huge this season with lacy lingerie detailing, vintage vixen lacing and show-stopping silk jumpsuits all adding a provocative touch of  va va voom to the s/s runways. Not to mention the rebirth of the bralette which is busy flaunting it’s way across the high street as we speak.

Topshop s/s 2010

Now, I’m not averse to flashing a bra-strap here and there but, if I’m honest, I’ve always viewed the bra over a tee look to be, well, a bit of a morning muddle to be rectified asap (preferably before a crack of dawn crisis necessitates a pop-to-the-shops…although accidents do happen). Needless to say I wasn’t exactly over the moon when I first read about this particular trend – and no I’m not sat here brazenly baring my (really rather cute) bra – but lingerie being my current raison detre I couldn’t very well sit this one out, so it’s time to get those knickers in a twist and get involved.

Channel your inner Courtney Love and go grunge a la the super-cool Just Cavalli girl. Layer-up lingerie slips over slouch tanks, throw a lacy bustier over a casual cotton tee or break out the bravado and go sheer…

Just Cavalli s/s 2010

Take a lesson from Mark Fast the master of peek-a-boo styling and flash some flesh in structured body-con cut-outs and slinky cobweb knits…

Mark Fast s/s 2010

A collection called ‘G-Spot’? It’s got to be Gaultier – and yes, the iconic cone bra is back, along with rips, slits, cutaways…think deconstruction with a hard-edged kinky  twist…

Jean Paul Gaultier s/s 2010

For something more feminine take your cue from Dior’s vampy femme fatales and work super sheer chiffon with a vintage boudoir bodice…

Christian Dior s/s 2010

So, are you ready to unleash your inner exhibitionist?

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