Christian Dior F/W 2011: Galliano’s Romantic Renegades

After the scandal came the show (the huge crowd seemingly oblivious to the rumoured boycot) and, while it may have been a swan song of sorts, few in the history of fashion can claim to have been as dramatic.

Rebels, renegades and lashings of theatrical romance have always been Galliano’s hallmark and his final collection for Dior was no exception to the rule. Mulberry and striking red fox fur, velour and satined midnight blues, victoriana cameo-choker detailing, Cavalier head-gear, and THOSE thigh-high boots.

 

Day-wear saw Bohemian highwaymen meet dashing Royalists in autumnal tweeds with a slightly fetishistic twist whilst the evening-wear swept in with elegant tiers of ruffles and ruching in bewitching black sheers to give beautifully bad boudoir appeal alongside candy floss creations that oozed saccharine savoir fair.

Gorgeous. Theatrical. Indelibly Galliano.

Head here to view the entire collection.

Moschino F/W 2011:Military meets Celine meets Female-Bond-Villain. Much Fun Ensues.

You’d do well to bring out the marching band this Fall as Moschino embraces masculine militaria – with a curve-ball of a twist of course.

Think sharp suited savoir faire and embrace immaculately tailored tailcoats, rip-roaring riding jackets and palazzo pants (in gold lame no less) as Jardini re-imagined the dress uniform for the modern Moschino madam. Oh – and lets not forget the bizarre-meets-kitsch bazaaresque accoutrements: golden teddy bears, velvet bows and – yes – that stuffed-chicken hat.

 

The New Romantics: S/S 2011

Britain may have a face like a smacked arse right now but whilst Spring does it’s very best to emerge from behind the sleet-grey backdrop of winter, romance is once again rearing it’s whimsical head and stretching out its languorous lace-clad limbs on the high street.

Of course it’s not all lace, think back to s/s 2010’s fetish for layering sheers and chiffon and add a dash of theatrical decadence. That’s the new romantic.

Now, time for your mandatory shot of runway inspiration…

Think déshabille chic and work sheers in dramatic layers for 20’s-nouveau-meets-art-house appeal a la John Galliano’s ready-to-wear collection based on the life and nefarious pursuits of Maria Lani – a Polish émigré who conned Paris’ artistic elite during the late 1920’s (read more about her here)

John Galliano S/S 2011 RTW

For something altogether more virginal why not reference Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring collection and work the table-cloth aesthetic (and no…I’m not joking…and it’s FABULOUS) – delicate tatting, sheer whites, crochet and beautifully executed broderie anglaise.

Okay, so virginal in a wild, animalistic, Wuthering Heights’ Cathy kind of way.

Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2011

Or, given the season – Golden Globes, Oscars…anyone? – why not look to Donna Karan’s breath-taking red-carpet chic…beaded applique, silk, tulle and (of course) sheers…*sigh*

Donna Karan S/S 2011

Of course if all that soft-focus, gentle femininity is too much for you, you can always rock it up with black leather (I recommend the Burberry cropped biker). Who said romance had to be good?

Milan Fashion Week: Blugirl F/W 2011

Time for my latest fashion crush: Blugirl – fancifully flirty offspring of the acclaimed Blumarine label designed by the fabulous Anna Molinari.

After drooling over their completely covetable Spring/Summer offerings (think vintage pin-up in cotton candy baby-dolls, polka dots, florals…essentially a Lolita love-in of epi-cute proportions) I have been dying to see their take on Fall 2011…and what a take it is!

Drop-dead gorgeous feminine tailoring with an anarchic mix of retro references and super-chic layering all served up in a 70’s twist on the autumnal palette – think watermelon and ecru with flashes of punchy orange.

Styling steal – ribbed oatmeal mid-calf socks (usually the preserve of Granddads)  and cutesy mary janes; shouldn’t work but so does (and offers a work-friendly alternative to the sandal/sock trend which has been doing the rounds of late).

Check out the s/s lookbook over at becomegorgeous.com or head over to ELLE.com for the full f/w collection (no, really, do).

From Seditionary to Sovereign: Vivienne Westwood a/w 2011

Vivienne Westwood’s a/w 2011 Red Label collection takes us forcefully by the hand and drags us (not unwillingly) head-first through the looking glass into a wildly eccentric world of quirky Queens in skewiff coronets, surrealist shapes and cockamamy curiosities all served up in artfully Westwoodian disarray.

Gorgeously paired naturals (not neutrals) punctuated with striking cerulean and vamp-worthy red, tartan (in the VW signature asymmetric cut – natsch), an executed-on-the-Central-Line-at-Rush-Hour approach to make-up and huge birds nests of artfully teased hair. In short a collection which left noone in doubt as to the true progenitor of the London look.

All Hail Queen Viv!

FYI: Those feather leg-warmers? Mine.

Caped Crusaders: F/W 2010

Chanel f/w 2010

This Fall…the super hero style staple becomes your style super hero in a less-than-action-filled adventure, possibly starring Steven Segal and with a slight – to moderate – chance of cameos by Edna Mode and Chuck Norris. Yes, the Cape is back – on your back – and looking at the weather today (er, good? morning London) I’m wishing I had mine already.

Alexander McQueen f/w 2010

From sleek utility at Chloe and Rag & Bone to imperial extravagance at Alexander McQueen and vampish 20’s glamour-meets-geek cape-come-stoles at Marc Jacobs your day/night/home/work cape dilemmas have all been solved in one fell swoop of a season.

Chloe f/w 2010

Rag & Bone f/w 2010

Some say capes are tricky but (as with most things) the style lies in the balance…

Marc Jacobs f/w 2010

Celine f/w 2010

What you’re aiming for with utility, for example, is a kind of pared-back boho-meets-hobo fusion (think purism, classicism, sleek but with a practical edge a la Chloe/ Celine), not – I repeat, NOT – Glastonbury refugee or Bolshevik bag-lady, so don’t go overboard on your bottom half.  Think skinny trousers (my money’s on leather if you want to nail the mixy-matchy texture angle) and brogues – still trumping pumps as the fashionista’s flat du jour. Or, why not try sweater dresses paired with cable-knit tights and Burberry Prorsum’s fierce shearling-meets-biker boots for an edgier-take on the trend.

Yves Saint Laurent f/w 2010

Images courtesy of Style.com

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Lets Get Leathered!! Loewe Leather Icons F/W 2010

British designer Stuart Vevers takes the Spanish Goddess of luxury leather back to basics with his new über chic, consummately cool and – dare I say – totally trans-seasonal Icons range. Featuring a wardrobe staple bonanza with pieces to take you from fierce and formal to sexy casual, all crafted from Loewe’s world-famous ‘nappa’ leather (light and supple like a textile but with that vampish edge only leather can bring to the stylistic table) and all in classic fashion-never-fail black…

From the Jimmy Dean retro-rocker jacket to the grunge-tastic Courtney Love pencil skirt, this collection is so goddamn cool it’s making the inevitable tears of envy, covetousness and all-round sinful lust-related emotion freeze directly onto my eyeballs.

Images courtesy of Sun Rainey

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All That Glitters…

Gold. Gold. Gold!

Midas and his roving hands have been having a field-day this season with the fruit of their school-boyish labours in resplendent evidence catwalk-wide…

PPQ Fall 2010

Marc Jacobs Fall 2010

High gloss Lame, Lurex knits, sequined and gilded applique added a touch of razzle-dazzle to collections across the fashion board from head-to-thigh body-armour at Balmain to gilt-glam trenches at PPQ and if the life-sized-Oscar look isn’t for you, never fear! Trim, filigree, shoes, accessories – gold is the accent colour this season…there is literally no end to the ways you can work (and rework) this trend…

Alexander McQueen Fall 2010

Balmain Fall 2010

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Gotta Take the Rough With the Smooth…

Continuing the more is more theme of Spring’s print clash attack, the shift from summer to autumn is all about piling on the texture. Mix, don’t match should be your mantra for some slap-bang on-trend cafe intellectual meets sex siren chic.

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2010

From ultra-lavish velvet to sheeny-shiny silk and beyond into deshabille denim, crumpled chiffon, spangle-tastic sequins, gentle jerseys and luxe leathers (yes, I am ‘on one’, and by one I mean a self-indulgent post-modifying lexical binge… it has been – as great Aunt’s and Grandparents are oft heard to mutter – ‘too long’), rework the big trends of spring with a side order of grunge…column skirts and DM boots? Yes. You. Can.

Costume National Fall 2010

Pair leather with your lace, wool with your chiffon and inject some autumn glamour with shearling a la that Burberry Prorsum Aviator or a little bit of Oscar de la Renta-esque fur-hemmed extravagance, and a seasonal palette update of gilded pumpkin, russet and (mmmmm) chocolate.

Kenzo Fall 2010

Emilio Pucci Fall 2010

Images courtesy of Style.com

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Septuagenarian Chic F/W 2010

Okay Fashionistas, t’is the season to Nan-it-up. It’s time to don those duffel coats, cosy-up in a cardy, pull your woolly socks up and pop a couple of teabags in the pot. Autumn has come over all old-school.

Literally.

Prada f/w 2010 Ad Campaign

From ribbed metallics and alpine lodge sweater dressing at Michael Kors, to duffel’s and cable knits at Dolce & Gabbana, and lets not forget Miu Miu’s nan-tastic take on the fishnet. Granny glam is big news (and ultra practical – wouldn’t want to catch a cold now would we dears).

Miu Miu f/w 2010 Ad Campaign

Herringbone, cable, ribbed…the chunkier the better…even over-enthusiastic-Christmas-jumper knits are getting a look in over at Jean Paul Gaultier. Think blue-rinse chintz chic meets Celine-inspired layers: just hang fire on the lavender and moth balls. No one wants to smell like a doorway to Narnia.

Michael Kors f/w 2010

Dolce & Gabbana f/w 2010

Jean Paul Gaultier f/w 2010

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